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Hacking the POS System - The Code List

This is specially to perform the instore carding, the following code are the essential when you want o card POS or using dumps to cashout. A handy list of code for you to refer, an updated list from previous post:

00 Approved authorization/transaction
01 Call
02 Refer card to issuer
03 Invalid division code
04 Pickup
05 Do not honor
06 Other error
08 Approved, honor with ID
10 Default call
11 Approved VIP approval
12 Invalid Transaction Type
13 Bad amount
14 Invalid credit card number
15 Default call Low fraud
16 Default call Medium fraud
17 Default call High fraud
18 Default call Fraud service unavailable
19 Re-enter transaction
20 Credit floor Low fraud
21 Credit floor Medium fraud
22 Credit floor High fraud
23 Credit floor Fraud service unavailable
24 Validated Approved None
25 Verified Approved None
26 Pre-noted Approved None
27 No reason to decline Decline Cust.
28 Received and stored Approved None
29 Provided Auth Approved None
30 Invalid field data
31 Request received Approved None
32 BIN Alert Approved None
33 Card expired
34 Approved for partial Approved None
35 Zero Amount Error Fix
36 Bad Total Auth amount Error Fix
37 Invalid Secure Payment Data Error Fix
38 Merchant not MC SecureCode Enabled Decline Call
40 Requested function not supported
41 Lost/Stolen
43 Stolen card
50 Positive ID
52 Processor decline
56 Restraint
58 Transaction type not permitted
59 Soft AVS
60 Do not honor Low fraud
61 Do not honor Medium fraud
62 Do not honor High fraud
63 Do not honor Fraud service unavailable
64 CVV2 Failure
65 Invalid Security Code
66 Other error
68 Invalid credit card number
69 Card does not support method of payment
71 No account
72 Invalid institution code
73 Unauthorized user
74 Invalid card expired
75 Bad amount
77 Bad amount
78 Missing companion data
79 Invalid merchant
80 Invalid method of payment for division
81 Call Low fraud
82 Call Medium fraud
83 Call High fraud
84 Call Fraud service unavailable
85 Duplicate order number
86 Auth down, recycle auth.
87 Invalid currency
88 Invalid P-card 3
89 Credit floor
91 Approved Low fraud
92 Approved Medium fraud
93 Approved High fraud
94 Approved Fraud service unavailable
95 Invalid Data Type Error Fix
96 Invalid Record Sequence Error Fix
97 Percents Not Total 100 Error Fix
98 Issuer Unavailable
99 No answer from host
A1 Payments Not Total Order Error Fix
A2 Bad Order Number Error Fix
A3 FPO Locked Error Wait
A4 FPO Not Allowed Error Call
A5 Auth Amount Wrong Error Fix
A6 Illegal Action Error Fix
A8 Invalid Start Date Error Fix
A9 Invalid Issue Number Error Fix
B1 Invalid Transaction Type Error Fix
B5 Not on file Decline Fix
B7 Fraud Decline Cust.
B8 Bad Debt Decline Cust.
B9 On Negative File Decline Cust.
C1 Invalid Issuer Decline Cust.
C2 Invalid Response Code Decline Fix
C3 Excessive Pin Try Decline Cust.
C4 Over Limit Decline Cust.
C5 Over Freq Limit Decline Cust.
C6 Over Sav limit Decline Cust.
C7 Over Sav Freq Decline Cust.
C8 Over Credit limit Decline Cust.
C9 Over Credit Freq Decline Cust.
D1 Invalid For Credit Decline Fix
D2 Invalid For Debit Decline Fix
D3 Rev Exceed Withdrawal Decline Cust.
D4 One Purchasing Limit Decline Cust.
D5 On Negative File Decline Cust.
D6 Changed Field Decline Fix
D7 Insufficient Funds Decline Cust.
D8 Encrypted Data Bad Decline Fix
D9 Altered Data Decline Fix
E3 Invalid Prefix Decline Fix
E4 Invalid Institution Decline Fix
E5 Invalid Cardholder Decline Fix
E6 BIN Block Decline Fix
E7 Stored Approved None
E8 Invalid Transit Routing Number Error Fix
E9 Unknown Transit Routing Number Error Fix
F1 Missing Name Error Fix
F2 Invalid Account Type Error Fix
F3 Account Closed Error Cust.
F4 No Account / Unable To Locate Error Fix
F5 Account holder Deceased Error Cust.
F6 Beneficiary Deceased Error Cust.
F7 Account Frozen Error Cust.
F8 Customer Opt Out Error Cust.
F9 ACH Non-Participant Error Cust.
G1 No Pre-note Error Fix
G2 No Address Error Fix
G3 Invalid Account Number Error Fix
G4 Authorization Revoked by Consumer Error Cust.
G5 Customer Advises Not Authorized Error Cust.
G6 Invalid CECP Action Code Error Fix
G7 Invalid Account Format Error Fix
G8 Bad Account Number Data Error Fix
G9 No Capture Decline N/A
H1 No Credit Function Decline N/A
H2 No Debit Function Decline N/A
H3 Rev Exceed Withdrawal Decline Cust.
H4 Changed Field Decline N/A
H5 Terminal Not Owned Decline N/A
H6 Invalid Time Decline Fix
H7 Invalid Date Decline Fix
H8 Invalid Terminal Number Decline Fix
H9 Invalid PIN Decline Fix
J1 No Manual Key Decline Fix
J2 Not Signed In Decline Fix
J3 Excessive Pin Try Decline Cust.
J4 No DDA Decline Fix
J5 No SAV Decline Fix
J6 Excess DDA Decline Cust.
J7 Excess DDA FREQ Decline Cust.
J8 Excess SAV Decline Cust.
J9 Excess SAV FREQ Decline Cust.
K1 Excess Card Decline Cust.
K2 Excess Card Freq Decline Cust.
K3 Reserved Future Decline N/A
K4 Reserved Closing Decline N/A
K5 Dormant Decline Cust.
K6 NSF Decline Cust.
K7 Future RD Six Decline N/A
K8 Future RD Seven Decline N/A
K9 Transaction Code Conflict Decline Fix
L1 In Progress Decline Wait
L2 Process Unavailable Error Resend
L3 Invalid Expiration Error Fix
L4 Invalid Effective Error Fix
L5 Invalid Issuer Decline Fix
L6 Tran not allowed for cardholder Decline Cust.
L7 Unable to Determine Network Routing Error Call
L8 System Error Error Call
L9 Database Error Error Call
M1 Merchant Override Decline Decline Cust.

Bank Identification Number (BIN) Selection for Instore Carding

Ok guys, here it is. Sorry it took me awhile but these days I am a busy man. This is kinda a quick draft, and when I think some more I will add to it. If you have something to add please do! If you have something you disagree with then keep it to yourself I don't care, this is from 6 years of instore experience. Enjoy!

So your trying to make your instore better, your getting what you think is shitty dumps, or just starting out..

For whatever your reason for reading this, your instore all starts with you. Some will be very sad when they hear that there is no magic way to find a great bin, and when you do find those great bins chances are the supply is limited and you will have to move on to new ones. The only way to keep your success rate high is to do much research into the bank in which your are looking to purchase bins of.


Finding Local Bins

Ok, so this is where a lot of people are confused. It is necessary to use a LOCAL bin in most cases to have success. You see ALL banks have fraud detection methods to keep there users safe. Some more sophisticated than others, mostly in general banks are looking for patterns in spending and location. What I mean is if the owner of the dump, only uses there card in Kentucky, and you try using it in New York, this is gonna raise a big flag to the bank. So, we must find bins in which are local to our area which we will be working.

Now your saying, ok well how do I do that? Here are some great methods:

  1. Look in your wallet! This is great because you know exactly how your dump will perform. If you can go buy a 4K lappy without a problem, chances are this bin will perform the same! But sometimes not, and I will go into more detail a little later on that.
  2. Search for list of local banks. Google is your buddy even while searching bins for instoring! Try this in google "Kentucky Credit Unions" I would bet you will find a page with a list of most the credit unions in your state, and a nifty link to there site! Now, take your bin list and find the bin numbers that correspond to your local credit unions. Make a list of this and save it. Were gonna use it later!
  3. Old CVV or CC's! Ok so I think a lot of people don't know this, a BIN number not only tells you what bank it belongs to, but WHERE it is located. So, if bin 414705 is owned by a person in New York then most every person from that bin is located there as well! So go find some old cc, or buy new ones and search as many bins you can find from your state. Add them to your list, make sure to include the name of the bank, not just BIN number.



Now you have made this huge list of bins you are sure are local to you. Now the fun part! You must research each bin extensively, I want you to go to the websites and find out as much as you can about the bins. Here is some things you want to look for:

  1. Very High Credit Limits! Banks that offer huge limits, will give you better success. This is because with a 100K limit, 2K on a swipe just isn't that much
  2. Credit Unions, while there bins are mostly hard to find, have lower security!
  3. Look for banks which offer Very low interest/no interest and other rewards for spending money. If a user chooses a bank with low interest/no interest and other rewards they most likely choose this bank because they are actually going to be using the card. The more activity on the card the less likely the card will be flagged, like I said earlier, banks look for patterns. One thing that will cause a decline or CFA is the card holder has not used there card for a year and all the sudden is trying to spend 2K. This is not the users normal pattern, and will cause a red flag. So to sum it up, bins which have more activity, will work better.

You can find much of this out just from visiting there website, or if you are really having trouble and a bank looks promising but there not posting the info, Call them! They will be more than happy to tell you all about them, use common sense and don't ask stupid questions. Make sure you play the part of a customer unless you want to get hung up on.



  1. So you had one dump from the 10 you bought of the same bin perform great, but the rest sucked. Look at the numbers, try to buy only this bin that expires in same year as the one that worked, so if it expired in 2010 try to get some with the same. Look at the 7th number, if first 7 are 4325679 and none of the other that sucked have that 7th number, buy the ones that do.
  2. Stay away from Federal Credit Unions, in my experience, they suck..
  3. All dumps can perform different, some you must use for one large swipe. And that's all you will get. Some if you buy a few small things, and then make a big swipe will work great. Some you will buy something small and its dead. You must experiment, once you find promising looking dumps, if they not working like you think they should try different purchasing methods.
  5. Time of the year effects dumps, during big spending holidays, dumps will work incredible. This is because the card users are active, the banks expect users to be spending.
  6. Vendors with fresh bases are better, it means the cards are more active recently.
  7. Small Banks almost always work better than large banks, less card holders means chances of getting active cards are better.
  8. If you found this tutorial useful, and your feeling giving don't be afraid to hook your boy up with something!

The Ultimate Instore Carding by n3d from Darknet

InStore Carding - How to succeed

In-Store Carding, the art of using counterfeit credit cards in order to obtain merchandise from stores. This article is for education only and to make those gain more knowledge

Instore Carding Tips, Tricks, Whatever

"First things first:"
As trust-funded wrote, "this is your card", this is rule number one. you must convince yourself that this is your card. being paranoid, scared, or nervous is a perfect way to get busted and tip off a clerk or any employee of a store. you must appear like the ordinary customer, just like you were going to buy something legit. it is now 2006, the days of dumps working for weeks without a problem are not that common. banks are becoming more secure and pushing new methods of fraud tracing out all the time.
This will not go into how to encode dumps or talk about where to get them. refer to the forum to find this kind of stuff.

"security, the swipe,
when you go out to card instore it can go two ways. you can succeed or fail. if you succeed you will most likely be outside of the store without handcuffs on and some free shit in hand. if you fail, maybe you got a decline, call for auth, or maybe in the back of the police cruiser.
  1. Keep your guard up: personal security is the most important thing about pulling off one of these operations. be yourself, calm voice, do not ever say the word stole/steal/stolen/jacked/hacked in the store. you never know whos listening to you! park away from the store, walmart has cameras outside and can see your license plate. you may think you got away, but if the bank goes after you the FBI will damn sure see that camera feed.
  2. Talk: don't be scared to talk to the clerks about products, or anything! if you are very shy then maybe you ought to work on snapping out of it, being friendly with the clerk before the big swipe makes a huge difference. if pick out a older lady throw a stupid question out there such as "hows your day been" or "has it been busy? it has been so crowded everywhere during the holidays". maybe a young guy, "whats goin on man", "i went to a party last night and was smashed im so tired". sound stupid? well i'll tell you first hand it isn't, it WORKS.
  3. Checkout:when you first walk in, always scope out the register. see who is working, what kind of terminal it is (self swipe, etc), just so you do not run into something you don't want to mess with, whatever you do, DON'T stare over there because it might just make you look stupid or alert somebody because they believe you want to rob them or something.
    1. Standing in line: standing in line just sucks, it really does. don't keep looking behind you. keep your head straight, don't laugh for no reason, and most importantly, do not look directly at a camera. talking is not necessary. a cell phone might be handy or maybe you can take a look at the product your getting.
    2. the "swipe": this is the most important part of instore carding, the swipe. this is where it goes down. if you have to hand the card over, go for it. as soon as the clerk swipes pull the hand out trick. put your hand over the register acting like you want the card back and most of the time they'll give it back. if not, then ask. you WANT, you NEED, you REQUIRE the card back. your prints are there so you better get it. if you self swipe, a good trick is to swipe it and put it away as fast as possible. not fast to where your practically going 400mph but you get the picture. this makes the clerk hesitate to ask you to see the card, compare signatures, whatever. all mind games here.
    3. the "response": you can get many results after the swipe, here we go.
      1. approved: you did it, sign that electronic screen or receipt and you are on your way. walk out and get the fuck out of there.
      2. declined: your cards fucked. either went too high or maybe it was a pick up. i never a clerk suspect a stolen card so i don't know what to suggest. throw them a 2nd card or if you don't have one, ask where an atm is and say you'll be back and just leave.
      3. call for authorization: tell that mother fucker you need the card back and all it means is that you went over your limit. if its self swipe tell them you have a thing and don't like giving your card to people because your bank said to keep it with you or some stupid excuse. calling for authorization on a card is bad news. some will just say declined, some will actually say "whats the name of the individual", and since you don't know, you're in a hot spot there. you can lie and say its your uncles and he told you to buy it maybe?
  4. "where to go": security is a big issue. i won't tell you all to stay away from malls because i shop there but never go back once you did it, although they have people walking around but most of the time they are looking for shop lifters. they have no reason to suspect you unless your banging out every store there and with a lot of people. any person with instore experience knows about the last 4 digits of the card. some POS terminals make the clerk type them in. if they don't match you are usually ok. tell them the bank is sending you a new card and you are sorry. you assumed you could still use it. radio shack, circuit city, best buy, hot topic, office depot(some), do last four. don't go there unless you spent money on matching plastic. good places to hit are stores inside of a plaza where there basically is no security besides LE patrolling the area which is usually fine. gas stations are easy but they can kill the dumps in some cases. pay at the pump is a bad idea. i would only recommend it if you were shit broke and needed gas to do more carding. don't fucking gas up anywhere with cameras. next thing you know is you carded a brand new computer just to get busted for 20 dollars worth of gas.
Good luck to everybody, have a nice thanksgiving everyone

By N3D

Fresh 2017 Amazon Carding Method by RBP

Things You will need:

  • Quality CC/CVV to an address, full name, phone number, zip code, city, and state (don't get junk cards pay good money for good cards)
  • Socks 4/5 to the state and if you can the city since that would be perfect. This sock must have never been used before so don't be cheap and get a quality sock. Socks are just as important as quality cards!
  • You will need programs to cleanup cookies and other flagging shit. Get CCleaner – get the free version it has everything you need. Get the flash cookie cleaner – it is free as well
  • Antidetect 7 or FraudFox VM: These are not needed but they really increase your carding success to almost 100% if used correctly and setup properly which both are not very hard to do.
  • A drop address or if your carding digital items you don’t need that.

OK now let's Card


First Method (Most successful)

Do this on a fresh reboot and make sure you have used ccleaner and flash cookie cleaner and they are running. Used disk cleanup in windows as well.

Go to Amazon and create a new account using the new fresh sock you have. Now you will need to act like a typical buyer so we can’t just jump right in. Go and search for a few items but don’t buy anything, just add anything to your cart small stupid items, not the items you going to card though.

Now logout, and leave your computer don’t do anything else on it. Put it to sleep. In 5 hours log back in. Clear out your shopping cart, now let’s card.

Go and find some items depending on your card limit that are anywhere between $30 and $150. Now using the credit card you have pay for the items in your cart. You may need to wait for amazon to approve your order or not. Sometimes it’s random I swear.

Now the order should have been accepted and shipped. If not then you either have a shitty card worth less than what you trying to card or you threw a flag. Go back and check your setup. This is pretty full proof way to card amazon. If everything is in place and you have your bases covered you should be in and out. Make sure you check to see if you IP leaking cause that would throw a flag as well: https://www.dnsleaktest.com

Now we can also speed up this order if it’s in processing just so it doesn’t get charged back and flagged before it gets shipped. Send amazon an email from the email that you created for this account. Gmail is preferred email for this setup as it is much more trustworthy do to its security signed up measures. Use an excuse to make them speed it up. There is excuse kind of tie into what you are buying. So let’s say you want a 800 dollar cannon camera then tell them that you need it for -- day for your college project or you will fail the class etc. Don’t forget it’s real person on the other end so make your excuse real and don’t go too in depth.

Now they may ask to call you on the phone number associated with the CC account. This happens maybe 30% of the time. Just say OK and hope no one picks up the phone on the other end and luck I on your side. If they send you another email saying they tried to contact you but no answer then simply say “I am so sorry I changed my number and I haven’t update it with my CC company yet” then give them a burner number where you can actually answer.

Now if all goes smooth then you have carded your first real item on Amazon. Now that you have done that your account is trusted and you can place an order between $500-$800 or until the card is maxed out. Stay below $2000 per order. Max the card out as quick as you can but be inconspicuous and act like a real buyer. The security for the most part are bots and the formulas they use are really intense so when I say act like a real buyer I mean that or you will get limited and blocked.

Just understand that these methods work 90% of the time and the majority of the success of carding I on the carder himself and the setup he has. With Antidetect or Fraudfox the carding success is closer to 95%. Amazon, eBay, and PayPal are getting harder and harder to card and fraud every day and pretty soon it won’t be possible so understand that you need to have everything in tip top setup and stay ahead of bots.


Second Method

This method is a little better for low level cards or just an easier method then the above as the security is a little more lenient because the purchase amount is less. This method is also not as successful as the above method.

Everything is the same as above except this time purchase an item worth around $2.00. Get the lowest and cheapest delivery time as it throws less of a security flag.

Now once your order is approved just like the first one your account is now a trusted account. I recommend using FedEx for your shipping method as it has less security compared to UPS and USPS for the real order.

Now card a total of $600-$800 dollars and it should go right through.

You can also open a seller account and attach the CC to it and purchase through a seller account. It is a little more work but your success will be greater.

Thank you and don’t forget if a payment is declined it’s 50% of the time the card so make sure your cards are good.

Thank you all and I wish you good luck in your endeavors.


Credit: RBP

How to Cashout all CCs to BTC


First I would like to thank you for purchasing this guide (Now available at wickybay.com) and wish you good luck on your cashout adventures :) Everything I wrote here is from personal experience, I tried my best to explain everything as clearly as possible and not forget any details but if something isn't clear send me a PM and I'll be glad to answer any questions.
Before starting you will need :
  • CCs
  • ANON sim cards (1 per renter and 1 per customer)
  • Your computer (of course :P)
  • Photo Exif Editor Apps (Runs with Android free app)
  • Anon Offshore CC with IBAN attached (optional but very useful for quick big cashouts)


  1. Your renter account
  2. Preparation
  3. Your listing
  4. Wait
  5. Your customer account
  6. Booking and cashout
  7. Clean your bitcoins
  8. Tricks
Now let's start. This method will allows you to cahsout all CCs to BTC easily with fake listings on 9flats.com. 9flats.com works in Europe and America, have no security (but it would be better if you use VPN, SOCKS5 etc..) no chargeback and bitcoins are accepted.
Now I am going to explain you step by step the process:
  1. DAY 1: Open an account (renter) on 9flats with a fake e-mail address, during the first 3 days log-in your account and visit the website, take quick looks on the listings (act like a real renter ).
  2. During these 3 days, you will need to pick up some pictures of flats for rent (the best way is groups on Facebook). Once you have your pictures, you will need to change the exif datas (use « Photo exif editor » for that), to the geolocation of your fake listing (use a real geolocation, google maps is your friend) and very important change also the info « photo taken the … » and chose a date during these 3 days (very good to increase your scoring) and don’t forget your pics in .jpg (important ! ! )
  3. After these 3 days create your listing on 9flats, the best way is to make a good standing flat in a chic place (approx $150 - $200 per day). Be a comedian ! Put periods of unavailability to look like to a regular renter. After that you will need to wait 48h to 72h before your rental ad is online.
  4. After 72h max your ad is online, good ! Log-in sometimes everyday (or every 2 days) during 1 week to look like as same as a normal renter.
  5. 1 week after Day 1 open a customer account (name must be as same as cc holder of course), act like a real customer, take your time to visit ads near the area of your fake flat, ask questions to other renters (4 days), after the 4th day : Card your own ad and don’t forget to contact the fake renter (you ! ) before, ask some questions etc…
  6. Once your fake booking is OK, you will receive an e-mail from 9flats, again be clever, log to your 9flats account by the link provided on your e-mail from 9flats, but it would be better if you let few hours before your booking and your cashout. At the cashout the options are : Bank wire or Bitcoins, of course choose bitcoins.
  7. The best way to clean your dirty BTC is grams they provide a new address every 10 hours.
  8. TRICKS:
    1. If after the booking you will have only 1 option : « payment in cash » the reason is that you have not been clever enough, so don’t forget to send some messages to others renters also with the owner of your fake flat (you ! ) during the booking.
    2. You can also bypass the option payment in cash : make a distant booking of about 1month, this process is useful because it allows you to cashout the funds of your 1st booking.
    3. The anon SIM cards may be useful if they need SMS verification (but not every time, I needed it one time only)
    4. The anon CC with IBAN attached may be VERY VERY VERY useful to cashout BIG amounts ! (Why? Because you will be able to make fake bookings with big amounts without fraud because the owner of the CC is you, you will have to pay the fees of course but it would be very profitable and it will allow you to increase your scoring to 200%)
Congratulations ! Now you know this easy method to cashout all CCs to BTC, please don’t forget to act as a real customer / renter to avoid suspicions, if you follow step by step your guide it will be easy for you to make $200 benefits everyday.

CREDIT: Plenty of Coins

Paypal Ninja's Secret

Understanding how PayPal acts, can help you anticipate what their next likely move will be, regarding Your Account.